Sunday, September 18, 2011

My bad guys... at least I've been busy!

So it's been some time since my last post. I've been so preoccupied with school that I haven't been doing much of anything else! School is still, well, hard. I decided to audit a course (I can't register for it officially since I'm part of a special Arabic-only institute) and I'm taking International Nuclear Law. Insha'allah it's a good class; thus far I really like the professor as she seems well-versed in the subject material and a quick google search showed that she has been very active in the field. That's at least moderately reassuring. I ended up moving up a level in Egyptian colloquial Arabic. My prior class was simply moving at too slow of a pace and hearing them say, "wait what?" every five minutes was enough to give me a hernia. Luckily I switched up and the new class is really fast paced and I'm more challenged. But wait...what did I do? Did I just make it even harder for myself? Woops! Hahaha. I even signed up for Student Union (the student government at AUC) and the Al Quds club. I'm really excited to see how these two clubs flesh out because I haven't been able to meet many Egyptians in my courses so perhaps I can in a more extracurricular fashion.

Language wise I feel like I'm improving really quickly. The coursework is so fast-paced that they introduce new vocabulary and grammatical concepts almost every day. We've already covered idaffa, noun-adjective pairs, suffixes, and we're beginning stuff with root stems. The language seems very intuitive so that's exciting at least. I progress much faster in Egyptian because, since it's a spoken dialect only, I don't have to fuss with writing or reading as much. It's just BAM BAM BAM Arabic. I've been able to have a few substantial conversations with passerby and my ability to ask for directions when lost has significantly improved. I actually had a funny incident at the grocery store where I do all my shopping, I'm standing in the line about to check out, I finally look into my wallet... nothing. My debit card isn't there and I have about 20 pounds of cash. I remember that the grocery store does "home delivery" and I am able to coordinate a deal where the manager "delivers" my groceries to me and I pay him upon "delivery." In reality it turned out to be me walking the manager to my house while we converse in broken Arabic. I pay him once we get to my apartment and lo and behold: I have groceries! People are so accomodating here; Egyptian hospitality is quite astounding. Just last night I went with Erin to Islamic Cairo where we spent time looking at a few of the historical markers and checking out the more authentic markets in the region. At dinner I was admiring the food at a nearby table and asked the women what it was (Ae da?) at which point she cut me a huge piece of it and gave it to me! At the local juice store I was interested in trying 3asir ilassab or sugarcane juice. After consuming the delicious beverage (and, might I add, the man literally fed sugarcane into the machine and out came my freshly made juice) the friendly shopkeeper gave me various recommendations of his favorite flavor combinations. He mentioned half and half (nus-a-nus) with orange juice and sugarcane was the best. I can't wait to try it! At the end of a long day of shopping we saw the famous Sufi dance for free! I am always so pleased when things are free.

At AUC there have been strikes going on for the past week. The first day of the protest was fascinating: Egyptians were standing up and protesting for what they perceived to be injustices. There was a 9% tuition increase this past year and various staff members also had grievances related to pay, medical, vacation time, and temporary workers. Students by the hundreds gathered around to protest during classes, screaming various chants in Arabic while hoisting their student leaders on their shoulders. Since the chants were in Arabic I asked a nearby girl what they were talking about. She told me, "oh they're just protesting. That guy [the one heading the chant] is an activist and is always finding something to protest about." HA! So much for "political liberation." Since the staff was protesting that meant the school grounds went...uncleaned. By day 3 it was filthy. Trash was overflowing out of all receptacles and many had simply put their trash on the floor. I will not even speak of what greeted me when I entered the women's bathroom. By day 5 there were insulting signs degrading the university president and just last Thursday the students tore down the American flag at the American University of Cairo (my school) campus. At this point, it has been a little excessive. So many Egyptians are pleased to have the right to protest they're willing to do it over frivolous things and at the expense of society's well-being. Tearing down the American flag served to isolate a large number of the international students, and especially, as you can imagine, the American students. Hearing the protests screaming during class to the point at which you can no longer hear the professor is when you know it's gone too far.

On another note - FOOD! I have been cooking sooo much!  I am so thrilled about cooking and unfortunately I have forgotten a few of the things I made last week. I had made a list but I lost it and you're stuck with my paltry recollections. I went out to eat last weekend (so two weeks ago) to a Lebanese restaurant called Tabouleh. It was pretty fucking fantastic. I ordered grilled Halloumi cheese as an appetizer, hot black mint tea, grilled lamb cubes, and turkish coffee to finish. The food was pricey, about $30 USD but it was of such high quality it was worth it. I just about freaked out at the restaurant much to the chagrin of my companions. Feeling the "meat cravings" a few days later I went out on an epic journey to find steak. I went to the local Metro Market to find something ambiguously labeled "beef steak." My years of watching food network, specifically Alton Brown's Good Eats, made me very suspect towards what looked more like london broil than any sort of "steak." My beef desires won out, anyway, and I bought it. I had my meat-loving friend Nic over to try out the meal I prepared. I seasoned the "steak" with salt, pepper, and cumin and rubbed garlic on it to add a slight sweetness. To top it I made balsamic caramelized onions and a merlot dipping sauce. The onions were a tad too crispy and the dipping sauce could have been thicker (must...find....cornstarch) but the flavors were there! Unfortunately this meat was definitely not steak and even when cooked to medium rare perfection it was almost impossible to cut, let alone chew. After what seemed like an eternity we had finished our meal and he ordered dessert from Tabouleh, the restaurant we had loved so much before. I was assured on the phone it would take no more than 45 minutes. It was a school night and I had a ton of work to do so this was very comforting. Almost 2 hours later the dessert showed up: cold and oddly appearing. It was there so I ate it, of course. Tasty, but not the best. Clearly delivery does not do this food justice. Later in the week I made a mango chicken curry. The mango was pureed with coconut milk and added at the end to add a rich sweetness to cut through the spiciness of the curry. I loved it! It had such great flavor and I was really happy with how complex the flavors were (: I have also mastered the art of "breakfast couscous" or couscous I prepared with milk, honey, cinnamon, dried apricots, and almonds. The rich bite of the semolina pairs perfectly with the honey and it gives a relatively fast and very filling meal! Another great thing I discovered is a french toast peanut butter sandwich. You take your bread (whole grain with seeds, if possible) and make a sandwich using a mixture of peanut butter, softened butter, and honey. Take this sandwich and dunk it into your favorite french toast batter and voila! French toast peanut butter sandwich! It tasted extremely decadent and it was very easy to make! I really loved the warm peanut butter combined with the eggy coating. And finally I made granola bars. I have been talking this up for sometime. I needed a filling, fast breakfast for the mornings that was both healthy and tasty. Result? Toasted coconut, almond, date granola bars. I added toasted wheat germ for added flavor and fiber and they turned out so good! They are moist and chewy with just the right amount of sweetness. They are filling enough for me to not be hungry until 11 AM if I eat one at 6:30 when I wake up. This is pretty impressive for me. I can't wait to try out more variations! I have a bunch of dried figs, dried apricots, Kashi cluster cereal, and other healthy knick-knacks I think would add some great flavor as well! On the agenda for tonight is lemon-thyme-garlic-rosemary chicken breast I made yesterday (I have been buying chicken whenever it's on sale and separating it into two chicken pieces. I put the two in a ziplock bag and add one of my homemade marinades then freeze it. Whenever I'm ready to make it, i.e. the days when I'm tired, I put it in the fridge and it marinates while it thaws. I always eat one and save the other already cooked for dishes like the one for tonight) which I'm going to cut up into cubes and cook with tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and basil and serve over pasta for a super simple meal. Since the chicken was already cooked and it had been marinating for so long this meal will come together super quickly! I love easy meals (:

On a bad note I have been suffering from a really bad sinus infection so far. Not sinus infection in the "sexy husky voice" kind of way but in the "ew what is coming out of her nose" kind of way. This has significantly detracted from my attention span and caused me to visit the AUC clinic today (SUCH a catastrophe, just by the way). About 4 prescriptions later and I'm drugged out sitting on my couch with a huge mug of golden monkey tea and blogging to you guys. On a happy note I'm getting scuba certified next week! It requires 4 hours of DVD watching, one 4 hour in-class module, and 4 hour at the pool before we get 4 dives in Hurghada next weekend. For those of you who don't know, Hurghada is a beautiful city on the Red Sea where I'll be staying for two nights/two days and performing 2 dives a day. After the end of my course I'll be officially padi open water certified for life. How awesome is that? 

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

First Day of School....and Second and Third!

So I'm back from Luxor/Aswan and it was pretty amazing! It was hard being away from family for various reasons but all the amazing things I saw made it enjoyable nonetheless. We started the trip off with a flight to Aswan and checking into our cruise ship. I'm not going to lie, I was pretty skeptical of the cruise ship. Imagining what kind of "discount" ship we would get (read: roach-on-a-boat) I was preparing myself for the worst. Luckily I was extremely surprised by the 5 star ship we landed on! It had about 5 floors and the roof had a beautiful pool and spa. Our ship, the beau soleil (fancy, eh?), had pretty nice rooms as well. The food was catered to foreign tastes and thus was a bizarre fusion of westernized Egyptian food and "cruise ship food." Unfortunately for my now swollen tummy there was a dessert buffet and they had new pastries at every meal. Naturally I had to try every single one 'for science.' Besides the ship itself we were escorted on a variety of trips to temples and sites along the Nile. We saw the Temple at Phillae, the Temple of Kom Ombo, the Temple of Edfu , a Nubian village, Karnak (which was amazing!), Hatshepsut's Temple, and the Valley of the Kings. It was pretty amazing seeing all the colossal statues and buildings that people thousands of years ago were able to build. The hieroglyphics were astounding. Our guide had a lot of information about what each symbol represented and I found myself getting accustomed to the style just within a few days - already being able to recognize gods and goddesses by sight. I was able to associate the symbols of each god/goddess, too! Facebook will soon have photos uploaded - I took about 150 if not more! All in all it was a really great trip and I loved how it was packed with a variety of locations. Unfortunately our flight from Luxor to Cairo was at 2 AM and I didn't arrive back at my apartment until 5 AM on Sunday morning...the first day of school.

So the first day of school was....hard. I was pretty much dead for the entirety of the day and for some reason ALI didn't get the "the first day of school is a blow-off full of get-to-know-you games and icebreakers" memo. Instead, they seemed to think it was 5 minutes of "Ismee Ashton, ana min Amrika fi medinat Dana Point wa adruss fi gam3at al Austin fi Texas." After that it was instruction from about 8:50 until 3 PM (with a 1 1/2 break for lunch...seriously). In total I'm taking 5 different classes: Modern Standard Arabic Grammar, Modern Standard Arabic Vocabulary, Printed Media (MSA), Survival Colloquial Egyptian Arabic, and Egyptian Conversation. I was debating signing up for an additional class entitled Reading and Vocabulary as an elective but I think I may audit a course outside of Arabic instead. Unfortunately my 5 classes translates to only 3 classes in Austin College terms - an inconvenience that I find extremely frustrating. It makes little sense that my hours and hours of Arabic only count as 3 courses to AC but I guess that's how they make their money.... :| The course I'm planning on auditing is by Ezzedine Fishere, a distinguished visiting professor at AUC who only teaches a few courses. He's pretty much awesome and I've stalked him for awhile now. I would kill to take a class with this guy. The one I want is called Global Conflict and Security and it's a graduate level political science course. He emailed me the syllabus (potentially as a deterrent from taking his course since he did hear that I'm a junior in undergrad...) and it has 11 books for required reading plus an additional 6 books as supplementary material. Oh and that includes about 20 articles that aren't in books. Wow. But they all look SO interesting. I really hope I get the chance to audit it. Since I am part of ALI I can't take the class for a grade but that may be for the best since I will have so little time to spare. My printed media course is...well...hard as hell. We walk into class and the professor is handing out copies of newspaper headlines asking us to read it silently and underline the words we recognize. Uhhh, really? I tested into these courses because I can read and write the alphabet - NOT because I have a working knowledge of Arabic vocabulary! I was able to recognize a few words (only the prepositions, to be honest) and was extremely intimidated right off the bat. Her fast-paced class bulldozed through about 50 different vocab words like NATO, the Arab League, transitional council, etc. I had no idea this vocabulary was classified under "middle Elementary." I shudder to think what the Intermediate kids are learning!  Needless to say I will have my work cut out for me this semester. Each professor seems adamant that we read and re-read all of the homework assigned and spend hours on each worksheet. This will be interesting indeed. Yet each successive day got a tiny bit easier as my confidence in Arabic grew. Unfortunately a lot of the other kids in my class have had a semester or more of Arabic - yet somehow they tested into my level? Read: lazy kids who wanted an easy A. Either way they screw up the curve of the class and make me feel like even more of a loser when I have to read aloud in my Hooked on Phonics Arabic. Egyptian colloquial is awesome though. Since it's almost completely oral I have little opportunity to read aloud and I can rely upon my ears and mouth to guide me. Much more preferable!

The biggest downside to AUC is definitely the food. The food is limited to these tiny kiosks and the random McDonalds, Cinnabon, or similar Egyptian chain like Cilantro (I know, this is Egyptian...I think they believe Spanish is 'trendy') or Cafe Tabasco (again with the trendy Spanish). Bottom line: it's gross. I had my first attempt at homemade breakfast bars last night. I found a copycat LaraBar recipe that has very few ingredients - all of which are easily available in Egypt like dates, coconut, cocoa powder, and peanut butter. I used generic Arabic peanut butter because the American kind was double the price it is back in the States. Bad move. The bars were tasty but definitely lacked the sweetness and consistency they needed. Since American peanut butter has an extremely dense consistency and high level of sugar I'm assuming this is what my mistake can be attributed to. However the bars aren't gross by any means and they are now in cute little foil-bars in the freezer ready to be thawed when needed.

 I also utilized Drinkies, the home delivery liquor/beer/wine shop in Egypt. I have been wanting to cook with wine for some time now and since it's no longer Ramadan the shops are back open! I called Drinkies to hear "thank you for calling Drinkies call center, a customer representative will be with you shortly." Uhh say what? I was expecting to use my broken Egyptian to stammer my way through this conversation and I find out there's a call center?! A friendly Egyptian quickly answers the phone and asks me what my order is. Uh-oh, I was definitely not prepared for this level of specificity. Expecting the normal level of Egyptian ambiguity I said,  "a bottle of red wine." He then asks, "what vintage and brand would you like?" ??!?!? Luckily my suitemate Ellen was nearby to supply me with a random name - Cape Bay wine. He then asks if the "summer vintage is okay"... uh hell yeah it's okay! The wine is then delivered to my door within 45 minutes at only a 4 le charge - the USD equivalent of was less than $1. It was awesome. I decide that this awesome wine (and it was awesome, by the way) merited a nice red sauce and pasta. I am usually highly critical of my food but this sauce was amazing! I caramelized some red onions and garlic in a pan which I then deglazed with the red wine and some beef stock. I added a bunch of fresh diced tomatoes and some tomato paste (plus salt and pepper, of course). I let it simmer uncovered for about 30 minutes when I added some fresh thyme and a pinch of cayenne pepper. The sauce was so good! I added a bit of the starchy pasta water to thicken up the sauce and allow it to bind to the noodles once mixed. It was so great that the next night I had leftover sauce so I had it again! I was so pleased!


I can't wait to start cooking more. I finally found whole wheat flour, rolled oats, and oat bran. I think this means I can start making breakfast bars in lots of varieties. I already have dried apricots, dates, and coconut so I think this should make for a little bit of variety. So excited! I know that if I pulverize the rolled oats in the blender it can make a hearty base for a breakfast smoothie...although this all depends upon my ability to wake up in time for breakfast! I have been "pushing it" lately with the whole "waking up on time" thing... turns out I don't like to wake up at 6 AM every day. It sucks. Ah well, at least I get to make more breakfast bars! Maa Salaama!